Fix Your Pool Water
What's wrong with your pool? Find the exact commercial-grade chemicals our DFW technicians use daily to solve every water problem.
My Pool is Green
Green water means algae is growing — usually caused by low chlorine levels, poor circulation, or a recent storm washing debris into the pool. Here's the exact treatment protocol our techs follow:
Treatment Protocol
- 1Brush walls and floor
Break up algae colonies so chemicals can reach them. Pay extra attention to corners and steps.
- 2Super-shock the pool
Use 3-4x the normal shock dose. For a standard 15,000-gallon pool, that's 3-4 lbs of Cal-Hypo shock. Run the pump 24/7.
- 3Wait 24-48 hours
Let chlorine levels drop below 5ppm before adding algaecide. Test with a strip or digital kit.
- 4Add algaecide
Apply a copper-based or poly-based algaecide to kill remaining spores and prevent regrowth.
- 5Clarify and filter
Dead algae turns water cloudy white. Add a clarifier to coagulate particles so your filter can catch them. Clean the filter frequently.
Products You Need for a Green Pool
My Water is Cloudy
Cloudy water is caused by microscopic particles too small for your filter to catch — dead algae, calcium buildup, sunscreen, or fine debris. The fix depends on the cause:
How to Fix It
Add a clarifier to coagulate dead algae and fine particles. Run the pump 24/7 and clean the filter every 8 hours until water clears.
Test chemistry first — high calcium or pH causes haze. Balance water, then add an enzyme clarifier to break down oils and organic buildup.
Use a flocculant — it sinks particles to the floor where you vacuum them to waste. Faster than a clarifier but requires manual vacuuming.
Check your filter — it may need cleaning, new cartridges, or fresh DE powder. A worn-out filter can't clear water no matter how many chemicals you add.
Clarifiers & Water Polishers
Water Chemistry & Balancing
Balanced water prevents scale buildup, protects your equipment, and makes chlorine work efficiently. Here's what each measurement means and how to fix it:
| Parameter | Ideal Range | Too Low? Add... | Too High? Add... |
|---|---|---|---|
| pH | 7.2 – 7.6 | Soda Ash (Sodium Carbonate) | Muriatic Acid or Dry Acid |
| Alkalinity | 80 – 120 ppm | Alkalinity Increaser (Sodium Bicarbonate) | Muriatic Acid (add slowly) |
| Calcium Hardness | 200 – 400 ppm | Calcium Hardness Increaser | Partial drain & refill (no chemical fix) |
| Cyanuric Acid (CYA) | 30 – 50 ppm | Stabilizer / Conditioner | Partial drain & refill (no chemical fix) |
pH, Alkalinity & Hardness Products
Daily Sanitization & Chlorine
Your pool needs a constant level of chlorine (1-3 ppm) to kill bacteria and prevent algae growth. Here are the two main methods:
Chlorine Tablets (Trichlor)
3-inch tabs placed in a floating dispenser or inline chlorinator. They dissolve slowly over days, providing steady chlorine release.
- + Set-and-forget convenience
- + Contains built-in stabilizer (CYA)
- - Can raise CYA over time (requires monitoring)
- - Very acidic — lowers pH over time
Liquid Chlorine (Sodium Hypochlorite)
Poured directly into the pool — fast-acting and leaves no residue. Used by most professional pool services including ours.
- + No CYA buildup — won't over-stabilize
- + Instant sanitization
- + What the pros use
- - Must add daily/weekly (not time-released)
- - Heavy liquid jugs to handle
Chlorine, Tablets & Sanitizers
Test Your Water
You can't fix what you can't measure. Strips for daily checks, liquid kits for the comprehensive monthly test, reagents to refill your kit, and digital testers when you want continuous data. Pin specific SKUs in admin → category pages to control what surfaces here.
Test Strips
All test strips →7-way strip packs for fast daily / weekly chlorine + pH spot checks. Fresh manufacture dates, sealed bottles.
Liquid Test Kits
All liquid kits →Taylor K-2006 and other professional reagent kits — the only sub-$100 path to reliable CYA, calcium hardness, and FAS-DPD chlorine readings.
Replacement Reagents
All reagent refills →Refills for Taylor, LaMotte, and Poolmaster kits. R-0871 (FAS-DPD) and R-0013 (CYA) wear fastest — keep spares.
Digital Testers & Smart Monitors
All digital testers →Photometers, ORP/pH meters, and continuous monitors. Best as a complement to a Taylor K-2006, not a replacement — most digital tools skip CYA / TA / CH.
Shop All Chemicals
Browse all 121 professional-grade formulations
Not sure what chemicals you need?
Bring a water sample to our Northlake store for a free digital spin-touch analysis. We'll tell you exactly what your pool needs and how much to add.
Chemical Safety & Dosage Accuracy
All dosage recommendations on this page are based on NSPF/PHTA CPO Handbook standards and manufacturer Safety Data Sheets (SDS). Actual dosages vary by product concentration, water temperature, and conditions. Always read the product label and SDS before use. SDS documents are available from each manufacturer or upon request from our team. For professional dosing assistance or a free water analysis, call (469) 455-1054 or bring a water sample to our Northlake store.
Frequently Asked Chemistry Questions
Can I add shock and algaecide at the same time?
No. Adding high levels of chlorine (shock) simultaneously with standard algaecides will destroy the algaecide polymers, rendering them useless. Always shock first, wait 24-48 hours for chlorine levels to drop below 5ppm, and then apply algaecide.
Why is my pool cloudy after shocking?
This is common and usually a good sign! Granular shock (Cal-Hypo) can naturally cause temporary cloudiness as it dissolves. Alternatively, if the shock killed a large amount of algae, the microscopic dead algae turn the water cloudy white. Use a Clarifier to help your filter catch these dead particles.
How do I lower my pool's pH?
You must use Muriatic Acid or dry Sodium Bisulfate (Dry Acid). Always add acid to the deep end of the pool while the pump is running vigorously. Never pour acid into the skimmer, as this will highly concentrate the acid and destroy your pump seals and heater core.